AllSaints
A British fashion retailer known for leather jackets, denim and a dark, rock-influenced urban aesthetic.
Last updated October 18, 2026
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Overview
AllSaints is a British fashion retailer and clothing brand headquartered in London. Founded in 1994 by Stuart Trevor and Kait Bolongaro, it began as a wholesale menswear business supplying premium department stores and fashion retailers, including Harvey Nichols and Harrods. The brand later developed its own retail identity, expanding from menswear into womenswear, footwear, bags and accessories. AllSaints is associated with a dark, contemporary visual language. Its design and retail environments commonly use black and muted colour palettes, industrial materials, exposed fixtures and music-related imagery. Leather jackets and denim are among its most recognizable categories, while the broader assortment includes outerwear, dresses, tops, knitwear, trousers, shoes, handbags and lifestyle accessories. The brand generally occupies a premium contemporary position, combining British fashion references with rock, alternative music and urban styling. The first stand-alone AllSaints shop opened near Carnaby Street in London in 1997, and the first womenswear collection followed in 1998. During the 2000s, the business expanded its British store network, launched e-commerce and underwent several changes in ownership. A minority investment by Baugur Group was followed by financial difficulty after the Icelandic investment group collapsed. In 2011, Lion Capital and Goode Partners acquired a controlling interest, helping recapitalise and restructure the company. Under William Kim, who became chief executive in 2012, AllSaints placed greater emphasis on international growth, digital commerce and Asian markets. Peter Wood became chief executive in 2018 after holding senior finance and operations roles at the company. The business continued to expand through physical stores, online retail, wholesale, concessions, franchising and licensing. It also broadened its cultural presence through music collaborations, live performances and charitable initiatives. The COVID-19 pandemic placed substantial pressure on the retailer. AllSaints sought restructuring protection in the United States, entered a company voluntary arrangement in the United Kingdom and used creditor-protection proceedings in Canada. The group subsequently expanded its brand portfolio through the acquisition of John Varvatos, a New York-based alternative menswear label, which was integrated into AllSaints in 2021. AllSaints suspended trading in Russia in 2022 following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. The brand sells through company-operated stores, digital channels and selected third-party or partner retail formats across international markets. Its recent business strategy has focused on product development, e-commerce, social-media marketing, international distribution and tighter inventory management. Publicly reported figures cited in the reference material describe record sales and profit in the financial year ending January 2023, although those figures include the contribution of John Varvatos. AllSaints remains an active international fashion business identified particularly with leather goods, denim, British design and an alternative music-oriented brand world.
History
AllSaints was established in Britain in 1994 by Stuart Trevor and Kait Bolongaro. Its original model was wholesale menswear, with the label supplying high-end retailers rather than operating a large proprietary store network. The name reflected Trevor’s nickname, “The Saint,” derived from his initials, and All Saints Road in Notting Hill, London. The first stand-alone store opened at Foubert Place near Carnaby Street on All Saints Day in 1997. Womenswear was added in 1998, beginning the transition toward a full lifestyle fashion retailer. By the middle of 2004, the company had grown to ten UK stores. Between 2004 and 2005, Kevin Stanford, a fashion investor associated with Karen Millen, acquired the interests of AllSaints’ partners and then bought Trevor’s remaining stake. In 2006, Icelandic investment firm Baugur Group purchased 35 percent, while Stanford remained the majority shareholder. AllSaints launched its e-commerce website later that year. The company expanded internationally in 2009 and 2010, launching a US-specific website and opening its first American store in New York. Further stores followed in major US cities. The expansion was expensive, but overseas operations became an important part of revenue. Additional international markets, including Italy, Turkey, Chile, Peru, Qatar, Taiwan and Dubai, were entered in 2016. The collapse of Baugur Group contributed to a severe financial crisis. In 2011, AllSaints was reported to have substantial debt and to be close to collapse. Lion Capital and Goode Partners acquired a controlling stake for £105 million, with Lion Capital subsequently increasing its ownership. The new owners became involved in operating management and recruited additional senior executives. Wil Beedle, previously the men’s design director, became chief creative officer in 2012. William Kim became chief executive in 2012. His tenure emphasized international development, Asian expansion, airport retail and digital commerce. The brand also continued to connect fashion with music and popular culture. Peter Wood, who had joined AllSaints in 2010 and had served as chief financial officer, chief operating officer and interim chief executive, became permanent chief executive in 2018. Under Wood, the company emphasized core apparel, digital and social marketing, and wholesale, concessions, franchising and licensing. AllSaints expanded its non-apparel offering with the Capital Collection handbag line in 2015 and entered fragrance with Revlon in 2018. It also used music partnerships and performances, including the LA Sessions, to reinforce its cultural positioning. Philanthropic activity included work related to human trafficking, homelessness, LGBTQ+ rights, anti-racism and sustainable cotton. The pandemic caused a major disruption to the store-based retail model. In 2020, AllSaints filed for Chapter 15 protection in the US and entered a UK company voluntary arrangement intended to shift many leases toward turnover-based rents. Its Canadian business entered creditor protection later that year. Lion Capital also acquired John Varvatos in 2020; the label was integrated into AllSaints in 2021. AllSaints suspended trading in Russia in 2022. The company’s reported 2023 results showed substantial growth in sales and profit, partly reflecting a full year of John Varvatos trading. The brand continues to operate internationally through stores, e-commerce and partner channels.
- 2022
Russian trading suspended
[1]AllSaints suspends trading in Russia after the invasion of Ukraine.
- 2021
John Varvatos integrated
[1]John Varvatos, acquired by Lion Capital, is integrated into the AllSaints business.
- 2020
Pandemic restructuring
[1]AllSaints uses US, UK and Canadian restructuring or creditor-protection processes during the COVID-19 disruption.
- 2018
Fragrance partnership with Revlon
[1]AllSaints launches its first fragrance line in partnership with Revlon.
- 2016
New international markets entered
[1]The company opens or launches operations in markets including Italy, Turkey, Chile, Peru, Qatar, Taiwan and Dubai.
- 2015
Capital Collection handbags launched
[1]AllSaints introduces its first comprehensive handbag line, the Capital Collection.
- 2012
William Kim becomes CEO
[1]William Kim takes over as chief executive and leads the company’s turnaround and international development.
- 2011
Lion Capital acquires controlling stake
[1]Lion Capital and Goode Partners acquire control of AllSaints during a major financial restructuring.
- 2009
North American expansion begins
[1]The brand launches a US-specific website and opens its first US store in New York.
- 2006
E-commerce launched
[1]AllSaints launches its online retail website after receiving a minority investment from Baugur Group.
Products and positioning
Premium contemporary British fashion retailer combining urban clothing with dark industrial styling, rock and alternative-music influences, and a strong emphasis on leather, denim and modern silhouettes.
Outerwear
Leather jackets
Leather jackets are a defining AllSaints category. The range is strongly associated with black and dark leather, asymmetric or fitted shapes, metal hardware and a worn-in or rebellious finish. These products express the brand’s alternative-music and industrial design references and are sold across both menswear and womenswear.
Apparel
Denim
AllSaints denim includes jeans and related garments designed to work within the brand’s urban wardrobe. Product treatments commonly emphasize dark washes, modern fits and occasional distressed or weathered effects. Denim functions as a core everyday category alongside leather outerwear, T-shirts, knitwear and footwear.
Apparel · 1994
Menswear
Menswear reflects AllSaints’ original wholesale business and remains a central product division. It includes jackets, coats, shirts, T-shirts, knitwear, trousers, denim and accessories. The range is positioned as contemporary urban clothing, often using streamlined silhouettes, dark colours and rock-influenced styling.
Apparel · 1998
Womenswear
Womenswear was added in 1998 and became a major part of the brand’s business. The assortment includes dresses, tops, skirts, knitwear, trousers, denim, leather and outerwear. Designs generally combine contemporary proportions with muted colours, fluid or fitted shapes and details associated with AllSaints’ darker aesthetic.
Accessories
Footwear and accessories
Footwear, handbags and accessories extend the AllSaints look beyond clothing. Products typically use restrained colours, leather or leather-like materials, streamlined forms and metal hardware. They are designed both as standalone goods and as coordinating elements for the brand’s apparel collections.
Handbags · 2015
The Capital Collection
The Capital Collection was introduced in 2015 as AllSaints’ first comprehensive handbag line. It broadened the brand’s accessories offer while retaining its emphasis on practical urban shapes, dark materials and understated hardware.
Beauty · 2018
Fragrance
AllSaints entered fragrance in 2018 through a partnership with Revlon. The first line included Metal Wave, Incense City and Sunset Riot, extending the brand’s alternative and music-oriented identity into scent.
Controversies
2026
Questions over chairman’s relationship with Jeffrey Epstein
Reference material reports that Lyndon Lea, chairman and Lion Capital owner associated with AllSaints, maintained a relationship with Jeffrey Epstein after Epstein’s 2009 conviction. It also describes communications concerning a woman later connected with AllSaints and social links involving Jean-Luc Brunel. The issue is a reputational and governance controversy surrounding an owner and chairman; the material does not establish criminal wrongdoing by AllSaints as a company.
Marketing campaigns
- 2011Not For Sale partnership
United Kingdom · International
AllSaints began a long-term partnership with Not For Sale and launched a T-shirt collection whose profits supported efforts to combat human trafficking.
Outcome. Charitable fundraising and awareness initiative.
- 2011Voices of the Cloth
United Kingdom
The company released a short documentary promoting British design and manufacturing.
Outcome. Brand storytelling focused on local design and production.
- The LA Sessions
United States
AllSaints hosted live music performances in Los Angeles featuring artists including OneRepublic and Mikky Ekko, using live culture to reinforce its relationship with music.
Outcome. Strengthened the brand’s music-led cultural positioning.
- Charity partnerships
United Kingdom
AllSaints has supported Shelter, the Kaleidoscope Trust and Black Minds Matter UK, addressing homelessness, LGBTQ+ rights and racial justice.
Outcome. Ongoing philanthropic and social-impact activity.
Brand decisions
2022
Suspend trading in RussiaStrategyBackground
The decision followed Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
Action taken
AllSaints suspended trading in the Russian market.
Aftermath
Russian operations were no longer part of the brand’s active trading footprint described in the reference material.
2020
Restructure store leases during the pandemicStrategyBackground
COVID-19 caused widespread store closures and reduced footfall, placing pressure on fixed retail rents.
Action taken
AllSaints pursued Chapter 15 protection in the US and a UK company voluntary arrangement, seeking to move many leases toward turnover-based rents; its Canadian business later entered creditor protection.
Aftermath
The restructuring was intended to preserve long-term viability and support continued operation of the international retail network.
2020
Acquire John Varvatos through Lion CapitalM&ABackground
Lion Capital, AllSaints’ owner, acquired the distressed alternative menswear brand John Varvatos.
Action taken
John Varvatos was brought into the wider AllSaints business and integrated in 2021.
Aftermath
The transaction expanded the group’s menswear portfolio and contributed to later reported AllSaints results.
2015
Launch the Capital Collection handbag lineProduct launchBackground
AllSaints sought to broaden its accessories offer beyond apparel and footwear.
Action taken
The company introduced its first comprehensive handbag collection, named Capital Collection.
Aftermath
Handbags became a more visible part of the brand’s product architecture.
2011
Accept controlling investment from Lion Capital and Goode PartnersM&ABackground
AllSaints faced severe debt and collapse risk following the failure of Baugur Group and required new capital and operational support.
Action taken
Lion Capital and Goode Partners acquired a controlling stake, with Lion Capital later increasing its ownership and taking a more active management role.
Aftermath
The transaction supported a turnaround, preserved the operating business and enabled renewed international and digital expansion.
Acquisition consideration. £53 million debt reported → £105 million paid for a 76% stake (2011)
Recent events
Reported
AllSaints appoints Emine Kaptanoglu as global digital director[3]
AllSaints announced Emine Kaptanoglu's appointment as global digital director; she joined the business on 2 November 2026 and will have global responsibility for the digital commercial strategy and online customer experience of AllSaints and John Varvatos.
Reported
AllSaints terminates its Golden Horse Awards partnership[4]
AllSaints announced on the evening of October 29 that it was immediately ending its cooperation with the Golden Horse Awards and reaffirmed the one-China principle.
Sources4 sources
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