Glycine Watch
Product brand
UnclaimedSwiss watch brand known for aviation timepieces.
Last updated August 31, 2026
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Overview
Glycine is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1914 by Eugène Meylan in Biel. Known for high-quality mechanical watches, especially aviation timepieces like the Airman series. The brand was acquired by Invicta Watch Group in 2016.
History
Eugène Meylan founded La Glycine in Biel/Bienne in 1914. In 1916, watchmakers Piccola and Joffrette became co-owners, and the business adopted a longer corporate name. The company was sold in 1922 to Ferdinand Engel and George Flury and continued developing watches with serviceable, interchangeable components. Its name refers to wisteria, called fleur de glycine in French, a choice associated with the floral design vocabulary of the Jugendstil period and with the plant's ability to grow in varied conditions. Glycine's early growth included pocket watches and women's watches, but its technical reputation expanded in the 1930s. Meylan, no longer directly affiliated with Glycine, established Automatic E.M.S.A. and patented a modular self-winding mechanism. Glycine collaborated with that company in 1930 to produce automatic watches on a mass-production basis. In 1942, Glycine's in-house movement was acquired by ASUAG, while ASUAG's resources and Glycine's watchmaking expertise contributed to development of an early bidirectional winding rotor. During the Second World War, Glycine also supplied watches to the German army's land forces. The post-war period produced the technical and commercial developments most closely associated with the brand. Glycine introduced the Airman in 1953 after consultation with the United States Air Force. Its 24-hour dial, date display and lockable rotating 24-hour bezel provided simultaneous reading of two time zones. In 1959, Hans Ulrich Klingenberg developed Glycine's vacuum-sealed case, designed to reduce condensation and prolong lubricant life. The case patent was filed in 1959 and granted in 1961. The Airman gained visibility in aviation and spaceflight. Pete Conrad wore one during Gemini 5 in 1965 and Gemini 11 in 1966; during the latter mission, the watch was exposed to space while Conrad conducted or supported an extravehicular activity. In 1967, Glycine introduced the Airman SST in a relationship with Boeing. Its tonneau case, orange dial and internal rotating bezel reflected the era's enthusiasm for supersonic aviation. The 1970s quartz crisis forced Glycine to diversify. The company produced quartz and LED watches, with some digital products enabled by the Ditronic collaboration. In 1984, Hans Brechbühler purchased the company. Katharina Brechbühler joined in 1992, and Glycine launched its first website in 1996. In 2000, the company introduced the Airman 7, a four-time-zone model developed for pilots and travellers. Katharina became sole owner in 2005 and shifted emphasis away from quartz toward mechanical watches. Following Hans Brechbühler's death in 2010, Katharina sold Glycine to Altus Uhren Holding AG, remaining involved in design. Under Altus, Glycine reintroduced a smaller original-style Airman case through the Airman No. 1 and produced an Airman anniversary model. Invicta Watch Group acquired Glycine in 2016. Invicta stated that the brand would remain independent while receiving support in marketing and distribution. Management remained substantially continuous until Daniele Andreatta became managing director in 2019. Glycine continues to draw on Airman aviation heritage and Combat sports-watch design while operating as part of the Invicta group.
- 2016
Invicta acquisition
[1]Invicta Watch Group acquired Glycine.
- 2000
Airman 7 introduced
[1]Glycine launched a four-time-zone Airman model aimed particularly at pilots in the United States.
- 1984
Brechbühler ownership begins
[1]Hans Brechbühler acquired Glycine.
- 1967
Airman SST launched
[1]Glycine introduced the Airman SST in association with Boeing and the era of supersonic transport.
- 1965
Airman associated with Gemini 5
[1]Astronaut Pete Conrad wore a Glycine Airman during the Gemini 5 mission.
- 1959
Vacuum-sealed case developed
[1]Hans Ulrich Klingenberg developed Glycine's vacuum-sealed case system to improve resistance to condensation and reduce service needs.
- 1953
Airman introduced
[1]Glycine launched its aviation-oriented dual-time watch with a 24-hour display and lockable rotating bezel.
- 1930
Early mass-produced automatic watches
[1]Glycine collaborated with Automatic E.M.S.A. on watches using Eugène Meylan's modular self-winding mechanism.
- 1914
La Glycine founded in Biel/Bienne
[1]Eugène Meylan established the watch company that became Glycine Watch SA.
Products and positioning
Swiss heritage watchmaker focused on functional mechanical watches, aviation history, dual-time displays, military durability and dive-watch capability.
Aviation mechanical watch · 1953
Airman
Glycine's signature aviation line, introduced in 1953. The original concept combined a 24-hour dial, date display and lockable rotating 24-hour bezel so that wearers could track two time zones. The Airman became associated with military and commercial aviation, international travel and the Gemini space programme. Later versions have retained the dual-time identity while varying case sizes, movements and dial executions.
Aviation mechanical watch · 1967
Airman SST
Introduced in 1967 through a relationship with Boeing, the Airman SST was inspired by supersonic transport aircraft. It used a tonneau-shaped case, an orange dial and an internal rotating bezel. Collectors often distinguish examples by their bright orange dials, which reflect the period's futuristic aviation design language.
Multi-time-zone mechanical watch · 2000
Airman 7
Launched in 2000, the Airman 7 extended Glycine's time-zone concept to four time zones. It was developed with pilots and long-distance travellers in mind, particularly users needing to track the four principal time zones of the contiguous United States. The model reinforced the Airman family as Glycine's central technical and commercial platform.
Military and dive-style watch
Combat
Combat is Glycine's sports-watch family, associated with robust cases, military styling and, in some versions, dive-watch functionality. It complements the aviation-oriented Airman by presenting the brand's tool-watch approach for land and underwater use. The family has included both mechanical and other movement configurations across different periods.
Digital quartz watch
Historical LED watches
During the quartz crisis, Glycine produced quartz watches including LED-display models. These watches were enabled in part by Ditronic, a collaboration among Swiss watchmakers seeking to respond to the lower prices and greater accuracy of battery-powered quartz products.
Brand decisions
2019
Winged crown logo disputeOtherBackground
Glycine added wings to its crown logo in 2015 to emphasize its aviation history. Giorgio Armani challenged the design, arguing that it could be confused with Armani's eagle logo.
Action taken
The Bern Commercial Court initially ruled for Armani. Glycine appealed, and the Swiss Federal Supreme Court overturned the lower-court decision, allowing Glycine to use the winged logo.
Aftermath
Despite prevailing on appeal, Glycine returned to its earlier crown logo without wings later in 2019.
2016
Sale to Invicta Watch GroupM&ABackground
Glycine had previously passed from Brechbühler ownership to Altus Uhren Holding AG in 2010. Invicta Watch Group subsequently acquired the brand.
Action taken
Invicta purchased Glycine for an undisclosed amount and stated that the Swiss watchmaker would preserve its independence while receiving assistance with marketing and distribution.
Aftermath
Glycine continued operating under its established brand identity, with a later leadership change in 2019.
Sources2 sources
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