Henry Poole & Co
Professional services
UnclaimedA historic London bespoke tailor associated with the origins of Savile Row tailoring and the modern dinner jacket.
Last updated August 25, 2026
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Overview
Henry Poole & Co is a British bespoke tailoring house based at 15 Savile Row in London. The business traces its origins to 1806, when James Poole opened a tailoring operation at Brunswick Square. During the Napoleonic Wars, the firm concentrated substantially on military tailoring, establishing an early connection with formal, uniformed, and ceremonial dress. After James Poole's death, the business was moved to Savile Row in 1846, where it became one of the houses most closely associated with the street's emergence as an international centre of bespoke tailoring. The firm takes its name from Henry Poole, who led the business during the nineteenth century. He is particularly associated with the house's relationship with the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII. In 1860, Henry Poole made a short evening or smoking jacket for the Prince to wear at informal gatherings at Sandringham. The garment is widely regarded as an important precursor to the modern dinner jacket. In 1886, the Prince recommended Henry Poole & Co to James Potter, an American visitor from Tuxedo Park, New York. Potter later wore a similar jacket at the Tuxedo Club, where other members adopted the style for informal evening events. This episode is commonly linked to the American use of the word tuxedo for a dinner jacket. Following Henry Poole's death in 1876, management passed to his cousin Samuel Cundey. The company has remained under Cundey family control across five generations, giving it an unusual degree of continuity within the London tailoring trade. The house's identity rests on individually commissioned garments, hand-led fitting, cloth selection, pattern development, and repeated alterations rather than on standardized ready-to-wear production. Its work encompasses formal eveningwear, business and lounge suits, ceremonial clothing, and related tailoring services. Henry Poole has also maintained a presence in institutional and court dress. The firm holds royal warrants of appointment and supplies the Lord Chamberlain's office with court dress. Its livery department has produced uniforms for ceremonial and institutional purposes, including garments associated with the bicentenary of the Battle of Trafalgar. These activities broaden the business beyond private wardrobes while remaining consistent with its emphasis on formal craftsmanship. The company continues to operate from Savile Row as an active bespoke tailor. Simon Cundey became managing director after the death of his father in August 2024, continuing the family's management of the business. Henry Poole's historical importance derives not only from its longevity but also from its role in the development of the dinner jacket, its contribution to Savile Row's reputation, and its continued position as a specialist maker of individually commissioned clothing.
History
Henry Poole & Co originated in 1806, when James Poole established a tailoring business at Brunswick Square in London. The firm initially developed a strong military-tailoring specialization during the Napoleonic Wars. This early work placed the business within a tradition of technically demanding uniforms and formal garments, a background that later complemented its civilian bespoke practice. After James Poole's death, the business moved to Savile Row in 1846. The relocation was significant because the street subsequently became internationally identified with high-grade bespoke tailoring. Henry Poole, who gave the house its enduring name, led the firm during its formative Victorian period. Under his direction, the business served prominent clients and became associated with the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII. The house's most famous contribution to menswear history concerns the dinner jacket. In 1860, Henry Poole made the Prince of Wales a short evening or smoking jacket for informal dinners at Sandringham. The garment differed from the more formal tailcoat and is widely described as an early modern-style dinner jacket. The story gained an American dimension in 1886, when the Prince recommended the firm to James Potter of Tuxedo Park, New York. Potter wore the resulting jacket at the Tuxedo Club after returning home, and other members adopted similar garments for informal evening dinners. The style's association with Tuxedo Park is commonly cited as the origin of the American term tuxedo. Henry Poole died in 1876. Management then passed to his cousin Samuel Cundey, who remained in charge until his death in 1883. The Cundey family subsequently retained control through five generations. This family continuity became a central part of the house's identity, alongside its location on Savile Row and its reputation for hand-made bespoke garments. Over time, Henry Poole's work expanded across private and institutional forms of formal dress. The firm has held royal warrants of appointment and supplied court dress to the Lord Chamberlain's office. Its livery department has also produced uniforms for ceremonial occasions, including work connected with the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar. These commissions demonstrate the firm's ability to apply bespoke and formalwear expertise to uniforms as well as individual wardrobes. The company's core service remains bespoke tailoring. Customers commission garments through consultation, cloth selection, measurement, pattern creation, fittings, and adjustments. The resulting products include suits, dinner jackets, formal eveningwear, court dress, and ceremonial or livery uniforms. Unlike a mass-market apparel label, Henry Poole's value proposition is based on personal service, fit, construction, cloth knowledge, and the heritage of its London workshop and showroom. Henry Poole & Co remains active at 15 Savile Row. Simon Cundey became managing director after his father died in August 2024, extending the family's involvement into a sixth generation of contemporary leadership or management continuity. The firm's historical importance rests on several overlapping achievements: its early presence on Savile Row, its long-running family stewardship, its service to royal and institutional clients, and its widely recognized connection with the evolution of the dinner jacket and tuxedo.
- 2024
Simon Cundey becomes managing director
[1]Simon Cundey assumed the managing director position after his father's death in August.
- 1886
Connection with the Tuxedo tradition
[1]The Prince of Wales recommended Henry Poole & Co to James Potter, whose subsequent use of the jacket at the Tuxedo Club helped popularize the American term tuxedo.
- 1876
Samuel Cundey takes over
[1]After Henry Poole's death, management passed to his cousin Samuel Cundey.
- 1860
Early dinner-jacket commission
[1]Henry Poole made a short evening or smoking jacket for the Prince of Wales for informal dinners at Sandringham.
- 1846
Relocation to Savile Row
[1]Following James Poole's death, the business moved to Savile Row, the address with which it became historically associated.
- 1806
Business established at Brunswick Square
[1]James Poole opened the tailoring business in London, initially with a major focus on military tailoring.
Products and positioning
High-end bespoke tailoring rooted in Savile Row craftsmanship, formal dress, royal and institutional service, and long-standing family continuity.
Menswear
Bespoke suits
Individually commissioned suits made through consultation, cloth selection, measurements, pattern development, fittings, and alterations. The service emphasizes personal fit, traditional bespoke construction, and the client's intended use, whether business, formal, or social.
Eveningwear · 1860
Dinner jackets and tuxedos
Formal evening jackets associated with the firm's nineteenth-century relationship with the Prince of Wales and the development of the modern dinner-jacket tradition. Contemporary commissions may be specified in different cloths, cuts, and levels of formality.
Ceremonial clothing
Court dress
Formal garments supplied for court and official ceremonial use. The firm has supplied the Lord Chamberlain's office and holds royal warrants of appointment, linking this offering to the house's institutional and royal tailoring work.
Uniforms
Livery and ceremonial uniforms
Uniform and livery work for institutional and ceremonial clients. The livery department has undertaken historically significant commissions, including uniforms connected with the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar.
Brand decisions
2024
Management succession within the Cundey familyOtherBackground
The business has remained under Cundey family control through five generations, and the previous managing director died in August 2024.
Action taken
Simon Cundey assumed the managing director role.
Aftermath
The succession preserved the family's management continuity while the house continued operating from Savile Row.
1860
Creation of a short evening jacket for the Prince of WalesProduct launchBackground
The Prince of Wales wanted a less formal garment for informal dinner parties at Sandringham.
Action taken
Henry Poole made a short evening or smoking jacket for the Prince.
Aftermath
The garment became an important predecessor of the modern dinner jacket and later contributed to the tuxedo tradition in the United States.
1846
Move the business to Savile RowStrategyBackground
After the death of founder James Poole, the business needed a new operating base and moved from Brunswick Square to Savile Row.
Action taken
The firm established itself on Savile Row, reinforcing its long-term identity as a specialist London bespoke tailor.
Aftermath
The move placed Henry Poole & Co within the street that became synonymous with high-end bespoke tailoring.
Sources1 sources
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