Is-Serkin

Is-Serkin, commonly known as Crystal Palace or Crystal Palace Bar, is a historic pastizzerija and bar on Triq San Pawl in Rabat, Malta. A pastizzerija is a small food business specializing in pastizzi, Malta’s inexpensive savory pastries, and Is-Serkin is regarded as one of the best-known examples of the format in the Maltese islands. The establishment traces its beginnings to the mid-1940s, with sources placing its opening in either 1945 or 1946. Its original proprietor was Ninu Azzopardi, who was nicknamed “Is-Serkin.” The nickname was associated with the horse carts called serkin used by many of the business’s customers. The alternate Crystal Palace name developed during the period when Malta hosted a substantial British military presence. British soldiers stationed in nearby Mtarfa, including personnel associated with the Crystal Palace area of London, regularly visited the premises for food and drink. The business became known for serving pastizzi directly from an oven in the shop. The pastries are prepared off-site and baked or heated for service, and are commonly accompanied by milk tea. The recipe has been treated as a closely guarded secret. The establishment’s appeal has traditionally rested on a combination of affordability, location, flavor, and unusually long opening hours. It originally operated around the clock, first catering to soldiers, later to farmers, and eventually to customers returning from parties and other late-night activities. Its schedule was subsequently reduced, with the premises reportedly closing for a short period between midnight and 2:00 AM. Ninu Azzopardi’s son, Martin Azzopardi, assumed control of the business in approximately 1969 or 1970. He operated it for decades before selling the business in the late 2010s. In 2017, the establishment added an outdoor patio, extending its informal social role beyond the indoor bar and counter-service area. Is-Serkin has also acquired symbolic importance in Maltese public life. In 2017, Malta’s Prime Minister Joseph Muscat hosted several visiting European leaders and their partners at Crystal Palace. The choice of a modest Rabat pastizzerija rather than a conventional diplomatic or fine-dining venue prompted criticism from politician Ann Fenech, but the criticism generated a public backlash, including memes and the hashtag #jesuispastizz. Fenech later apologized and appeared in a photograph at the establishment with Martin Azzopardi’s father. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily forced the premises to close. Local commentary treated the closure as an unusually significant event for a place embedded in everyday Maltese food culture, with one report comparing it rhetorically to the closing of a church. Is-Serkin’s identity therefore extends beyond its food offering: it combines a recognizable local specialty, a long-running family and owner history, British-era associations, late-night accessibility, and a reputation as a characteristic Maltese institution.

Is-Serkin developed as a small Rabat food and drink business during the mid-1940s. Sources date its opening to either 1945 or 1946. The original owner, Ninu Azzopardi, acquired the nickname Is-Serkin because many customers arrived by horse carts known as serkin. That nickname eventually became the establishment’s best-known Maltese name. The business also became known as Crystal Palace or Crystal Palace Bar. This name is linked to the British military presence in Malta during the twentieth century. Soldiers stationed at nearby Mtarfa, including personnel associated with London’s Crystal Palace area, regularly visited the premises. The name consequently connected a local Maltese snack bar with the military and social geography of the island during the British period. Is-Serkin’s core product is pastizzi, a savory pastry strongly associated with Maltese everyday food. The business’s pastizzi are prepared away from the premises and served hot from an oven at the shop. Customers commonly eat them with milk tea. The recipe has been described as secret, helping reinforce the establishment’s distinctive identity. Its reputation has also been built on practical qualities: a convenient Rabat location, low prices, characteristic flavor and extended opening hours. For much of its history, the premises operated 24 hours a day. Its first overnight customers were reportedly soldiers, followed by farmers and later people leaving parties. The schedule was eventually shortened, with a regular two-hour closure between midnight and 2:00 AM. This history of late service helped make the establishment part of the island’s nocturnal food culture as well as a daytime stop for local residents and visitors. Martin Azzopardi, Ninu Azzopardi’s son, took over the business around 1969 or 1970. He continued operating it for several decades and became closely associated with its public identity. In 2017, the business added an outdoor patio, providing additional seating and strengthening its role as a casual meeting place. Martin later sold the business in the late 2010s. The establishment’s reputation was highlighted by a politically notable visit in 2017. Joseph Muscat, then Malta’s prime minister, hosted Belgium’s Charles Michel, Luxembourg’s Xavier Bettel and Slovenia’s Miro Cerar, together with their partners, at Crystal Palace. The choice of a modest pastizzerija became a subject of political commentary after Ann Fenech criticized it. Public reaction largely turned the episode into a defense of the venue and of pastizzi as a Maltese cultural symbol. Memes and the hashtag #jesuispastizz circulated, and Fenech subsequently apologized. The COVID-19 pandemic brought a temporary closure. Because Is-Serkin was so familiar as a daily and late-night stop, local media framed the closure as an unusually striking disruption to Maltese routine. The episode reinforced the business’s status as more than a food outlet: it is a recognizable local institution associated with Rabat, inexpensive traditional food, social gathering and continuity across generations.

• 2020

  Temporary pandemic closure

  [1]Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org

  COVID-19 restrictions force Is-Serkin to close temporarily.

• 2017

  Outdoor patio added

  [1]Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org

  The establishment expands its seating with an outdoor patio.

• 2017

  Crystal Palace hosts European leaders

  [1]Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org

  Joseph Muscat hosts visiting European prime ministers and their partners at the Rabat establishment.

• 1969

  Martin Azzopardi takes over

  [1]Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org

  Ninu Azzopardi’s son Martin assumes control of the business around 1969 or 1970.

• 1945

  Business opens in Rabat

  [1]Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org

  Is-Serkin is reported to have opened in 1945 or 1946 as a pastizzerija and bar on Triq San Pawl.

A traditional, affordable and informal Maltese pastizzerija valued for its long history, central Rabat location, late-opening tradition, freshly served pastizzi and strong place in local food culture.

• Maltese savory pastry

  Pastizzi

  Pastizzi are Is-Serkin’s defining offering and the product most closely associated with its reputation. They are prepared off-site and served hot from an oven at the premises. The business’s recipe is treated as confidential, while the combination of crisp pastry, savory filling, low price and immediate service has made the product central to the establishment’s identity.

• Beverage

  Milk tea

  Milk tea is a customary accompaniment to the pastizzi served at Is-Serkin. Together, the pastry and tea represent the establishment’s simple, inexpensive refreshment format and its connection with traditional Maltese pastizzerija culture.

• Café and bar beverages

  Bar refreshments

  Alongside its signature pastries, Is-Serkin operates as a casual bar serving drinks and simple refreshments. The beverage offer supports the venue’s longstanding role as a place for soldiers, farmers, late-night customers and other visitors to eat and socialize.

• 2017The #jesuispastizz public reaction

  Malta

  After Ann Fenech criticized the choice of Crystal Palace as the venue for a gathering of European leaders, members of the public responded with memes and the hashtag #jesuispastizz. The reaction reframed the venue as a source of Maltese cultural pride.

  Outcome. Fenech apologized and later appeared in a photograph at Crystal Palace with the owner’s father.

  Source

• 2020

  Temporary closure during the COVID-19 pandemicOther

  Background

  Public-health restrictions during the COVID-19 pandemic affected hospitality businesses in Malta.

  Action taken

  Is-Serkin temporarily stopped operating.

  Aftermath

  The closure was widely noticed because of the establishment’s prominent place in everyday Maltese food culture.

  Source

• 2017

  Add an outdoor patioStrategy

  Background

  After decades as a compact pastizzerija and bar, the establishment expanded its customer area.

  Action taken

  Is-Serkin added outdoor patio seating.

  Aftermath

  The patio provided additional space while preserving the venue’s informal food-and-drink format.

  Source

1. 1Is-Serkinen.wikipedia.org