John Lobb Bootmaker

John Lobb Bootmaker is a luxury footwear business whose name covers two related but distinct operations: the original family-owned bespoke workshop in London and the Hermès-owned Paris business that developed the international ready-to-wear collection. The brand is associated primarily with high-end men's shoes and boots, while also offering women's footwear and leather accessories such as belts and wallets. The business traces its origins to John Lobb, who established himself as a bootmaker in Australia during the nineteenth century. He opened a first store in Sydney in 1854 and built a reputation for imported and locally made footwear, including riding boots. In 1862, a pair of polished leather riding boots produced with the tanner Alderson & Sons and lead bootmaker William Cassull received a Prize Medal at the International Exhibition. This recognition helped establish Lobb's reputation before his move into the European luxury market. Lobb opened a London shop in 1866, where the firm became known for technically demanding handmade footwear and customers from European royal circles. After John Lobb's death in 1895, his son William continued the business. William opened a Paris location in 1901 and later attempted a further London shop on Regent Street. When William died in 1916, his wife Betsy Lobb took responsibility for preserving and operating the company. The firm retained its handcraft orientation during a period when many competitors were adopting more industrial production methods. The London operation at 9 St James's Street remains an independent family business, generally identified as John Lobb Limited. Its bespoke process involves taking detailed measurements, creating individual wooden lasts, and constructing each pair by hand around those lasts. The workshop has historically served members of the British royal family and prominent public figures. This bespoke business is separate from the Hermès-owned John Lobb operation, although both retain a connection to the original name and shoemaking tradition. In 1976, the French branch was acquired by the Hermès Group, which received permission to use the John Lobb name for its footwear activities. The Hermès business expanded beyond traditional made-to-measure work and introduced a ready-to-wear collection from 1982. A Paris store dedicated to the line opened in 1990, supporting broader international distribution. The Hermès business has continued to present John Lobb as a specialist luxury footwear house, combining traditional construction details with seasonal collections and a global retail network. Today, John Lobb therefore operates through a dual structure. The London workshop continues to make bespoke shoes one pair at a time, while the Hermès-owned Paris business manages the internationally distributed ready-to-wear brand and related leather goods. The distinction between the two operations is important: the London company is independently family-owned, whereas the Paris and ready-to-wear activities belong to the Hermès Group. Together they give John Lobb a position spanning artisanal bespoke shoemaking and luxury branded footwear.

John Lobb Bootmaker developed from the work of John Lobb, a nineteenth-century bootmaker whose early commercial success was achieved in Australia. Lobb opened a store in Sydney in 1854, selling imported men's and women's footwear while also building a local manufacturing reputation. His work included riding boots, a technically demanding product requiring accurate fit, durable materials, and careful finishing. In 1862, Lobb worked with local tanner Alderson & Sons and lead bootmaker William Cassull to produce polished leather riding boots that won a Prize Medal at the International Exhibition. Lobb established a London presence in 1866. The London business became associated with handmade footwear for affluent clients and European royalty. Rather than following competitors toward extensive mechanisation, the firm retained a craft-based production model. This emphasis on individual fitting and handwork became central to the identity later associated with the John Lobb name. John Lobb died in 1895, after which his son William took control. William expanded the business to Paris in 1901 and also opened a Regent Street shop in London in 1904, although the latter venture was not profitable. William's death in 1916 placed the company in the hands of his wife, Betsy Lobb. Her leadership was important in keeping the business operating through a difficult period and preserving the family connection to the workshop. The London bespoke operation continued from 9 St James's Street and remained independent. Its process involved measuring each customer's feet, preparing a wooden last to the individual's shape, and building the shoes around that last. The resulting footwear was made as a personal commission rather than as a standard size. The workshop's client history includes members of the British royal family and well-known entertainers and public figures. Its profile was also documented in the 1945 British Pathé film Shoes for the Famous. A major structural change occurred in 1976, when the French branch became part of the Hermès Group. Hermès was permitted to use the John Lobb name for its own business, while the original London family company retained its independent ownership and bespoke activity. For several years the business remained focused largely on custom and made-to-measure footwear. From 1982, the Hermès-owned operation added ready-to-wear shoes, allowing the name to reach customers who did not commission fully bespoke footwear. A Paris store dedicated to the ready-to-wear line opened in 1990, and distribution subsequently expanded internationally. The two operations continue to coexist rather than forming a single fully integrated company. The London workshop remains a family-owned bespoke maker, while John Lobb Paris is part of Hermès and develops the international ready-to-wear collection. Both businesses draw on the name's heritage, but their ownership, production models, and commercial roles differ. In the contemporary market, John Lobb represents both the highly individualised craft of bespoke shoemaking and the more scalable luxury model of seasonal ready-to-wear footwear and leather goods.

• 2014

  First artistic director appointed

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  Hermès announced Paula Gerbase as John Lobb's first artistic director.

• 1990

  Dedicated Paris ready-to-wear store opened

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  The first store specifically showcasing the ready-to-wear line opened in Paris.

• 1982

  Ready-to-wear activity introduced

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  The Hermès-owned operation expanded beyond bespoke and made-to-measure work by introducing a ready-to-wear collection.

• 1976

  French business acquired by Hermès

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  The French branch joined the Hermès Group, which was permitted to develop the John Lobb name for its footwear business.

• 1945

  Featured in Shoes for the Famous

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  The London bespoke business was documented in a British Pathé film about footwear made for notable clients.

• 1916

  Betsy Lobb takes over leadership

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  Following William Lobb's death, Betsy Lobb led the business and helped preserve its continuity.

• 1901

  Paris shop opened

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  William Lobb opened a Paris location, establishing the French connection that later became part of the Hermès-owned operation.

• 1895

  John Lobb dies

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  After John Lobb's death, his son William assumed leadership of the business.

• 1866

  London workshop established

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  John Lobb opened a London shop, beginning the business's enduring association with St James's and British bespoke shoemaking.

• 1862

  Prize Medal for riding boots

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  A pair of polished leather riding boots made with Alderson & Sons and William Cassull received a Prize Medal at the International Exhibition.

• 1854

  First Sydney store

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  John Lobb opened his first store in Sydney, initially dealing in imported and locally made men's and women's footwear.

• 1849

  John Lobb business founded

  [1]John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org

  The business traces its foundation to John Lobb and the establishment of his bootmaking enterprise.

Luxury bespoke and ready-to-wear footwear centered on traditional English shoemaking, hand construction, premium leather, and long-term artisanal continuity.

• Luxury bespoke footwear

  Bespoke footwear

  The London workshop's core offering is individually commissioned footwear. A customer's feet are measured in detail, after which a wooden last is produced to reflect the client's shape and fit requirements. The shoes are then constructed around that last using traditional handmaking methods. This process differentiates the bespoke operation from standard-size ready-to-wear production and allows clients to specify materials, styling, and finishing details.

• Luxury footwear · 1982

  Ready-to-wear shoes

  Introduced by the Hermès-owned John Lobb business from 1982, the ready-to-wear collection translates the house's formal English shoemaking identity into standard sizes for international distribution. It provides a more scalable alternative to the London bespoke service while retaining a luxury positioning, leather-focused construction, and an emphasis on traditional silhouettes and finishing.

• Footwear

  Boots

  Boots are part of John Lobb's historical and contemporary product universe. The founder built his early reputation through riding boots, and the modern business continues to offer luxury boot styles alongside formal shoes. Depending on the operation and collection, boots may be made through bespoke commissioning or offered as part of the Hermès-owned ready-to-wear range.

• Luxury leather accessories

  Leather goods

  The brand also offers leather accessories, including wallets and belts. These products extend John Lobb's leather expertise beyond footwear and provide smaller luxury goods associated with the same restrained, formal positioning.

• 2014

  Appointment of the first artistic directorStrategy

  Background

  The Hermès-owned ready-to-wear business formalised its creative direction as the international collection continued to develop.

  Action taken

  Paula Gerbase was appointed John Lobb's first artistic director.

  Aftermath

  The appointment gave the brand a named creative leadership role for its contemporary product direction.

  Source

• 1990

  Dedicated Paris ready-to-wear retail expansionStrategy

  Background

  The ready-to-wear business required a dedicated retail setting distinct from the traditional bespoke workshop model.

  Action taken

  A Paris store showcasing the ready-to-wear line was opened.

  Aftermath

  The store supported the development of John Lobb as an internationally distributed luxury footwear brand.

  Source

• 1982

  Ready-to-wear collection introducedProduct launch

  Background

  The business had historically concentrated on custom-made and made-to-measure footwear.

  Action taken

  The Hermès-owned operation added a ready-to-wear collection to complement bespoke and made-to-measure services.

  Aftermath

  The John Lobb name became suitable for wider retail distribution and international luxury footwear sales.

  Source

• 1976

  Hermès acquires the French branchM&A

  Background

  The French branch of the John Lobb business was acquired while the original London bespoke workshop remained independently family-owned.

  Action taken

  Hermès took control of the French operation and was allowed to use the John Lobb name for a broader footwear business.

  Aftermath

  The transaction created the dual structure that continues today: an independent London bespoke company and an Hermès-owned Paris and international ready-to-wear business.

  Source

1. 1John Lobb Bootmakeren.wikipedia.org