Johnstons of Elgin
Corporate brand
UnclaimedA Scottish family-owned luxury textile manufacturer and fashion brand specializing in cashmere, wool, knitwear, woven accessories, and estate tweeds.
Last updated October 17, 2026
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Overview
Johnstons of Elgin is a long-established Scottish luxury textile manufacturer and fashion brand based in Elgin, Scotland. Founded by Alexander Johnston in 1797, the business began as a wool-processing operation and developed into one of Scotland’s best-known vertically integrated textile companies. Its historic Elgin mill carries out multiple stages of textile production, including fibre preparation, dyeing, spinning, weaving, and finishing, while a second mill in Hawick in the Scottish Borders focuses principally on knitted garments and accessories. The company’s identity is built around the combination of Scottish manufacturing, natural fibres, and control over production. Its product range includes cashmere scarves, knitwear, sweaters, cardigans, hats, gloves, blankets, throws, woollen clothing, woven accessories, and estate tweeds. In addition to selling products directly through its own stores and digital channels, Johnstons of Elgin supplies fabrics and finished or semi-finished goods to luxury fashion companies. Publicly identified customers and industry partners have included Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, and Burberry. The brand’s fibre expertise expanded during the nineteenth century. James Johnston, who joined the business in 1835, introduced Australian Merino wool in 1847, vicuña in 1849, and cashmere in 1851. The company exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851 and later participated in international exhibitions in Paris, building export relationships across Europe, Australia, South America, Japan, and North America. Estate tweeds became another important specialization, with the first recorded Johnstons Estate Tweed produced in 1845 and a Super Balmoral tweed made for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1853. Although the business is rooted in manufacturing, Johnstons of Elgin has progressively developed a consumer-facing luxury brand. The company marque featuring a J, thistle, and bee was created in the 1930s, and branded labels began appearing on blankets, scarves, and tailored textiles. The 1980 acquisition of Eastfield Mill in Hawick allowed the company to expand into machine knitting and later into broader knitwear. From the 2000s, design and retail became more prominent, including the opening of a flagship store on London’s New Bond Street in 2015 and an appearance at London Fashion Week in 2018. Johnstons of Elgin remains privately owned, with a continuing family connection to the Harrison family, which acquired the company in 1920. It holds royal warrants related to estate tweeds, knitwear, and woven accessories. Its current public positioning emphasizes heritage, craftsmanship, traceable natural fibres, durability, and responsible production. Sustainability initiatives include participation in the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, sourcing Australian Merino wool under the Responsible Wool Standard, apprenticeship and education programmes, and B Corp certification achieved in 2023.
History
Johnstons of Elgin traces its origins to 1797, when Alexander Johnston established a wool business in Elgin, Scotland. The operation initially worked from Deanshaugh before moving to Newmill, a former meal mill on the River Lossie. The Newmill site remains associated with the company and became the centre of an unusually comprehensive textile process. By 1811, carding, dyeing, spinning, weaving, and finishing were being performed on the same premises, creating a vertically integrated mill capable of controlling much of the route from raw fibre to finished cloth. The company began exporting early in its history, recording an international sale to Nova Scotia in 1813. During the nineteenth century, the Johnston family broadened the business’s technical and commercial range. Alexander Johnston’s son James joined in 1835 and introduced several luxury fibres, including Australian Merino in 1847, vicuña in 1849, and cashmere in 1851. That same year the company exhibited at London’s Great Exhibition. It subsequently showed rare-fibre textiles, rugs, shawls, plaids, and tweeds at international exhibitions in Paris, receiving diplomas and medals. By the late nineteenth century, its export network reached France, Italy, Germany, Belgium, Australia, South America, Japan, and the United States. Estate tweeds became a distinctive part of the company’s heritage. Johnstons produced an Estate Tweed in 1845 for MacDougalls of Inverness, invoiced as Lord Lovat’s Mixture. In 1853 it made the first Super Balmoral for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The company later developed a royal-warrant relationship for the manufacture of Estate Tweeds, which was held from 2013 under HRH Prince Charles and subsequently complemented by warrants for knitwear and woven accessories from HM The King in 2024. Family succession continued through the Johnston line until the business was sold in 1920 to Edward Stroud Harrison, who had joined the company as a designer and assistant. The Harrison family has remained connected with ownership and leadership. In the 1930s, Harrison designed the J, thistle, and bee marque that helped transform a manufacturing company into a recognizable consumer brand. The mark appeared on blankets, scarves, and tailored woven goods. A major operational change came in 1980, when Johnstons acquired Eastfield Mill in Hawick. The Scottish Borders facility initially produced knitted accessories and later expanded into knitted garments, using advanced Shima Seiki machinery. This allowed the business to extend beyond woven cloth and blankets into the cashmere and wool apparel categories for which it is now widely known. From the 2000s, Johnstons of Elgin invested more visibly in design, retail, and brand development. It opened a flagship London store on New Bond Street in 2015 and presented at London Fashion Week in 2018. Alongside its own consumer business, the company continued to manufacture or supply luxury textiles for international fashion houses. In the twenty-first century, the company has emphasized skills preservation, responsible sourcing, and environmental performance. It established school engagement and apprenticeship initiatives, became a Scottish Qualifications Authority accreditation centre in 2015, and participated in the founding of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance. It has also stated commitments involving SFA-certified cashmere and Responsible Wool Standard-certified Australian Merino wool. Johnstons of Elgin achieved a Queen’s Award for Enterprise in Sustainability in 2021 and B Corporation certification in 2023. It remains an active, privately owned Scottish textile manufacturer with operations in Elgin and Hawick.
- 2024
Additional royal warrants
[1]The company received royal warrants for knitwear and woven accessories from HM The King.
- 2023
B Corporation certification
[1]The company became a certified B Corporation.
- 2015
New Bond Street flagship opened
[1]Johnstons of Elgin opened a flagship retail store in London’s New Bond Street.
- 1980
Hawick mill acquired
[1]The company purchased Eastfield Mill in Hawick and expanded into knitted accessories and garments.
- 1920
Harrison family acquisition
[1]Edward Stroud Harrison acquired the business, beginning the continuing Harrison family connection.
- 1851
Cashmere introduced and London exhibition appearance
[1]James Johnston introduced cashmere to the business, which also exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London.
- 1845
First Estate Tweed
[1]Johnstons wove an Estate Tweed for MacDougalls of Inverness, known on the invoice as Lord Lovat’s Mixture.
- 1813
First recorded international sale
[1]The company made an international sale to Nova Scotia.
- 1811
Newmill becomes vertically integrated
[1]The Elgin operation had integrated carding, dyeing, spinning, weaving, and finishing on one site.
- 1797
Business founded in Elgin
[1]Alexander Johnston established the wool and textile business in Elgin, Scotland.
Products and positioning
Scottish luxury textile and fashion brand combining vertically integrated manufacturing, heritage craftsmanship, premium natural fibres, and responsible sourcing.
Apparel
Cashmere knitwear
The brand’s cashmere apparel includes sweaters, cardigans, and related wardrobe pieces made through the company’s Scottish knitting operation. The category reflects Johnstons of Elgin’s long-standing specialization in luxury natural fibres and its positioning around softness, durability, and Scottish manufacturing.
Accessories
Cashmere scarves and stoles
Scarves and stoles are among the brand’s best-known consumer products. They use cashmere and other fine fibres in woven or knitted constructions and serve as accessible expressions of the company’s luxury positioning and textile expertise.
Textiles · 1845
Estate Tweeds
Estate Tweeds are woven Scottish cloths associated with country estates, outdoor wear, and traditional tailoring. Johnstons’ documented Estate Tweed history reaches back to 1845, and the category remains linked to the company’s royal-warrant manufacturing heritage.
Home textiles
Wool and cashmere blankets
Blankets and throws extend the company’s woven textile heritage into the home. Products use wool, cashmere, and blended natural fibres and are produced within the company’s broader Scottish manufacturing system.
Accessories · 1980
Knitted accessories
The Hawick mill produces knitted accessories such as hats, gloves, and other cold-weather items. This line grew after the 1980 acquisition of Eastfield Mill and forms part of the company’s royal-warranted woven and knitted offering.
Wholesale textiles
Luxury textile fabrics
Beyond its own label, Johnstons of Elgin manufactures and supplies luxury textile materials and products for fashion houses. Publicly identified customers have included Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, and Burberry.
Marketing campaigns
- 2015Sustainable Fibre Alliance founding
Mongolia · United Kingdom · International
Johnstons of Elgin joined as one of the founding members of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, working with Mongolian cashmere producers on responsible fibre production and grassland management.
Outcome. The initiative became part of the company’s stated approach to cashmere sourcing and sustainability.
- 2012Schools and apprenticeship skills programme
Scotland
The company developed school engagement and modern apprenticeship activities to introduce young people to textile manufacturing and preserve specialist mill skills.
Outcome. Johnstons later became a Scottish Qualifications Authority accreditation centre and received recognition for youth development.
Brand decisions
2023
B Corporation certificationStrategyBackground
The company had been increasing its focus on environmental performance, fibre traceability, workforce development, and responsible production.
Action taken
Johnstons of Elgin obtained certification as a B Corporation.
Aftermath
The certification became a public marker of the company’s social and environmental commitments.
2015
Expansion of branded retailStrategyBackground
Johnstons of Elgin was developing a more visible consumer-facing luxury identity alongside its established role as a textile supplier.
Action taken
The company opened a flagship store on London’s New Bond Street.
Aftermath
The store strengthened the brand’s direct-to-consumer presence in a prominent international luxury retail location.
1980
Acquisition of Eastfield MillM&ABackground
The company sought to broaden its manufacturing capabilities beyond woven textiles and establish a stronger presence in knitted products.
Action taken
Johnstons of Elgin acquired Eastfield Mill in Hawick and began producing knitted accessories, later adding knitted garments.
Aftermath
The acquisition created the company’s second Scottish manufacturing site and became central to its cashmere and knitwear business.
Recent events
Reported
Campaign For Wool launches limited-edition scarf[3]
Campaign For Wool launched a limited-edition unisex scarf to mark its 10th anniversary. Amy Powney of Mother of Pearl designed it, and Johnstons of Elgin manufactured it.
Reported
Campaign For Wool launches anniversary scarf[4]
Campaign For Wool launched a limited-edition unisex scarf to mark its 10th anniversary. Designed by Amy Powney of Mother of Pearl and manufactured by Johnstons of Elgin, the scarf is made from wool sourced from the UK, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand; profits will support the Prince’s Foundation’s Future Textiles initiative and apprenticeships at Johnstons of Elgin.
Sources4 sources
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