Laoganma

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Laoganma is a Chinese condiment brand best known for chili oil, chili crisp, and related spicy sauces.

Last updated October 31, 2026

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First read: Nov 4, 2026
Latest read: Nov 4, 2026

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Overview

Laoganma, also written Lao Gan Ma and translated as “Old Godmother,” is a Chinese condiment brand associated primarily with chili oil, chili crisp, fried chili products, and spicy bean-based sauces. The brand is produced by Laoganma Special Flavour Foodstuffs Company in Guizhou and is closely identified with its jar labels depicting founder Tao Huabi. Its products draw on spicy sauces characteristic of Guizhou cuisine and are used as toppings, cooking ingredients, dipping sauces, and table condiments. The brand’s origins are linked to Tao Huabi, who is reported to have developed a chili sauce in 1984. After operating a noodle restaurant in Guiyang from 1989, Tao noticed that customers were especially interested in her sauces. She subsequently shifted from restaurant service toward direct sauce sales. In 1994, she obtained premises from the Yunguan Village Committee in Guiyang’s Nanming District and established a factory employing approximately 40 people. The commercial company associated with the brand was established in 1997. Laoganma’s growth was accompanied by trademark and counterfeiting problems. The brand initially faced difficulty securing trademark protection, and products using similar names and packaging appeared in the Chinese market. A 2001 Beijing high-court ruling reportedly prohibited competing products from using the Laoganma name or imitating its packaging and awarded Tao compensation. Following further litigation involving a counterfeiter in Hunan, the trademark application was approved in 2003. The dispute helped establish the visual and naming features that consumers associate with the brand. Tao’s son, Li Guishan, became the company’s first president. During the period when management passed to the next generation, the company was reported to have changed the pepper variety used in its sauces from Guizhou chili to chili sourced from Henan. Laoganma’s reported annual income fell in 2017 and 2018 after reaching a reported 4.549 billion yuan in 2016. Commentators attributed part of the decline to perceived changes in aroma and flavor, although the company’s sales performance had multiple possible causes. Tao returned as manager in 2019, and the company reportedly restored Guizhou chili to the recipe. Laoganma has become one of the most recognizable Chinese food brands outside China. It is sold domestically and in more than 30 other countries, where its products are commonly used with noodles, rice, dumplings, stir-fries, vegetables, and meat. The brand has also been credited with helping popularize Chinese-style chili oil and chili crisp in Western markets, alongside a wider growth of Chinese-inspired spicy toppings. Its international identity rests on a combination of strong sensory flavor, distinctive packaging, broad culinary utility, and a founder-centered brand image. In 2020, Laoganma became involved in a widely reported dispute with Tencent after scammers allegedly used the company’s seal to create a fraudulent advertising agreement connected with Tencent’s SpeedDrifters video game. Tencent initially sought asset preservation over unpaid promotional fees. An investigation concluded that the agreement was fraudulent, three suspects were arrested, and Laoganma and Tencent later announced a settlement. The incident did not end the brand’s operations, and Laoganma remains an active Chinese condiment brand with domestic manufacturing and international distribution.

History

Laoganma’s history is rooted in the food-business experience of Tao Huabi in Guiyang, Guizhou. Tao is reported to have developed the sauce in 1984. In 1989, she opened a noodle restaurant in Guiyang and found that customers were particularly attracted to the spicy sauces served with the food. This demand encouraged her to convert the restaurant activity into a specialty sauce business. In 1994, Tao borrowed two houses belonging to the Yunguan Village Committee in the Nanming District of Guiyang and used the premises to establish a larger sauce operation. Approximately 40 employees worked at the new factory. The commercial enterprise associated with the brand, Laoganma Special Flavour Foodstuffs Company, was established in 1997. Tao’s image and the brand’s name became central elements of the product identity, with the packaging helping distinguish Laoganma from other chili sauces. Early expansion was complicated by counterfeiting. The company reportedly encountered difficulty obtaining trademark protection when its initial application was rejected. Similar products then appeared with names and packaging designed to resemble Laoganma. Tao responded through legal and commercial efforts aimed at protecting the brand. In 2001, a Beijing high-court ruling reportedly prevented other producers from using the Laoganma name or copying its packaging and granted Tao compensation. A later lawsuit involving a Hunan counterfeiter preceded approval of the trademark application in 2003. As the company expanded, responsibility moved partly to Tao’s son, Li Guishan, who became its first president. The brand remained strongly associated with Tao, but reports linked a later change in the recipe to a period of weaker sales. After 2011, the company was said to have replaced Guizhou chili with chili from Henan. Guizhou chilies were described as larger and more aromatic, with characteristics that contribute flavor beyond simple heat. Laoganma’s reported income declined from 4.549 billion yuan in 2016 to 4.447 billion yuan in 2017 and 4.389 billion yuan in 2018. The recipe change was frequently suggested as one explanation, although the available material does not establish it as the sole cause. Tao returned as manager in 2019, and the company reportedly returned to Guizhou chili. This episode illustrated the importance of ingredient provenance and taste continuity to the brand. Laoganma’s products continued to include several chili-oil, chili-crisp, fried-chili, hot-sauce, and bean-paste varieties based on flavors associated with Guizhou cooking. The brand subsequently expanded its international presence. It is sold in China and more than 30 other countries and became particularly visible in Western food culture as Chinese chili oil and chili crisp gained popularity. Laoganma’s products are used as condiments and cooking ingredients rather than being limited to one meal category, giving the brand a broad role in noodles, rice dishes, dumplings, stir-fries, vegetables, and meat preparations. In 2020, Laoganma was drawn into a dispute with Tencent. Three alleged fraudsters reportedly forged a contract using the company’s seal and presented it to Tencent as a commercial advertising agreement related to the SpeedDrifters video game. Tencent pursued unpaid promotional fees and requested the seizure of company assets. Laoganma’s investigation indicated that the company had not authorized the agreement. The three suspects were arrested on July 1, 2020, and Laoganma and Tencent later announced a settlement. The episode was a corporate fraud incident involving the brand, not evidence that Laoganma itself had conducted the alleged deception. Laoganma remains an active Chinese condiment brand. Its lasting significance comes from the combination of a distinctive founder-led identity, recognizable packaging, spicy and textured products, protection of its trade dress, and international familiarity with Chinese chili-based toppings.

2020
Fraudulent Tencent advertising contract is uncovered
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
A fraudulent advertising agreement involving Tencent and the SpeedDrifters game led to asset-preservation proceedings, arrests, and a later settlement.
2019
Founder returns to management
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
Tao Huabi reportedly returned as manager, and the company restored Guizhou chili in its recipe.
2003
Trademark application is approved
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
Trademark protection reportedly followed litigation against a counterfeiter in Hunan.
2001
Court ruling addresses counterfeit products
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
A Beijing high-court ruling reportedly prohibited imitation of the Laoganma name and packaging and awarded Tao compensation.
1997
Laoganma Special Flavour Foodstuffs Company is established
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
The commercial company producing the brand’s sauces was established.
1994
Factory operation begins in Guiyang
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
Tao established a sauce factory in borrowed premises in Guiyang’s Nanming District and employed about 40 people.
1989
Guiyang noodle restaurant opens
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
Tao opened a noodle restaurant in Guiyang, where customer demand for her spicy sauce encouraged a shift toward sauce production and retailing.
1984
Tao Huabi develops the sauce
[1]Lao Gan Ma - Wikipediaen.wikipedia.org
Tao Huabi is reported to have invented the chili sauce that later became associated with Laoganma.

Products and positioning

An accessible, highly recognizable Chinese spicy-condiment brand positioned around savory heat, crunchy or aromatic chili toppings, Guizhou culinary traditions, and everyday use across home cooking and prepared foods.

Chili crisp
Spicy Chili Crisp
A textured chili topping combining fried or crisp chili material with oil and savory seasoning. It is commonly used directly on noodles, rice, dumplings, vegetables, and meat, while also functioning as a cooking ingredient. The product represents Laoganma’s best-known contribution to the broader international familiarity of Chinese chili crisp.
Chili oil
Chili Oil with Black Bean
A savory chili-oil condiment incorporating black beans for additional fermented, salty, and umami notes. It can be spooned over prepared food or incorporated into stir-fries, sauces, and marinades. Its flavor profile reflects the brand’s focus on layered savoriness rather than heat alone.
Fried chili condiment
Fried Chili in Oil
A product centered on fried chili pieces preserved in oil. The frying process gives the condiment a more pronounced roasted and crunchy character, making it suitable as a table topping or as a flavor base in cooked dishes. It is part of Laoganma’s core family of oil-preserved chili products.
Hot sauce
Hot Chili Sauce
A pourable or spoonable spicy sauce intended for everyday use with prepared food. It can be served as a dipping condiment or used during cooking to add chili flavor and saltiness. The product broadens Laoganma beyond crisp toppings into a more conventional hot-sauce format.
Bean-based chili paste
Spicy Bean Paste
A thick, savory paste combining chili with beans and seasoning. Its dense texture makes it suitable for spreading, dipping, or incorporating into cooked dishes. The product reflects the brand’s range of fermented and bean-enhanced spicy condiments associated with Chinese regional cooking.

Controversies

2026
Lao Gan Ma faces controversy over alleged AI-related layoffs
Lao Gan Ma faced controversy after a report said that staffing on one production line fell from more than 600 people to 48 following the introduction of an AI chili-pepper inspection system. The company's human resources representative denied layoffs and disputed that its deputy general manager had given specific employee numbers; the article also reported substantial public criticism online.
Source
2020
Fake Lao Gan Ma advertising contract prompts Tencent payment lawsuit, later withdrawn
In 2020, Tencent sued Lao Gan Ma for advertising fees and applied for property preservation; Lao Gan Ma denied signing the contract; police subsequently investigated persons suspected of impersonating employees and forging seals. Tencent withdrew the lawsuit and apologized to Lao Gan Ma, and the two parties communicated and reached a settlement. This is a brand controversy arising from contract verification and fraud, and does not establish that Lao Gan Ma owed the money.
Source
2020
Tencent and Lao Gan Ma issue joint response to dispute
Tencent and Lao Gan Ma stated that they had clarified their misunderstanding. According to the joint response, Tencent said it had applied to withdraw its lawsuit and its property-preservation application, apologized to Lao Gan Ma in person, and would improve related processes. The parties also said they would actively explore future formal cooperation. The statement did not provide further details on the nature of the misunderstanding or the terms of any cooperation.
Source
2020
Procuratorate intervenes in investigation of alleged forged Lao Gan Ma seal
The Nanming District People's Procuratorate in Guiyang said it had intervened in the investigation of a case involving an allegedly forged Lao Gan Ma company seal. The article reports the intervention as a development in the case, not a finding of liability by Lao Gan Ma.
Source

2020
Settlement with Tencent over fraudulent advertising arrangementOther
Background
Tencent sought payment under an advertising contract that Laoganma said had been created fraudulently using the company’s seal.
Action taken
The incident was investigated, three suspects were arrested, and Laoganma and Tencent announced a settlement.
Aftermath
The dispute was resolved without the supplied material indicating a lasting interruption to Laoganma’s operations.
Assets subject to Tencent’s preservation request. (2020)
Source
2019
Return to Guizhou chiliGeneration change
Background
After reported declines in annual income and criticism of the altered flavor profile, Tao Huabi returned as manager.
Action taken
Laoganma reportedly switched its recipe back to Guizhou chili.
Aftermath
The decision restored the ingredient associated with the brand’s traditional regional flavor, although later performance details are not established in the supplied material.
Source
2011
Pepper sourcing changes from Guizhou to HenanGeneration change
Background
Reports associated a recipe change with the period after management passed to Tao Huabi’s son. The company was said to have replaced Guizhou chili with chili from Henan.
Action taken
The pepper variety used in the sauce was changed.
Aftermath
Some observers attributed subsequent sales declines and a perceived loss of aroma to the change, although the available source does not establish a single definitive cause.
Source

Recent events

Unconfirmed
Reported2026.10.27
Laoganma reports 2025 revenue[6]老干妈披露2025年营收original.ifeng.com
Laoganma executive Li Xin disclosed that the company’s 2025 annual revenue reached 5.4 billion yuan, nearing its historical high.
2026.10.26
Reported2026.10.30
Lao Gan Ma faces controversy over alleged AI-related layoffs[4]Lao Gan Ma faces controversy over alleged AI-related layoffsvjmedia.com.hk
Lao Gan Ma faced controversy after a report said that staffing on one production line fell from more than 600 people to 48 following the introduction of an AI chili-pepper inspection system. The company’s human resources representative denied layoffs and disputed that its deputy general manager had given specific employee numbers; the article also reported substantial public criticism online.
Unconfirmed
Tencent and Lao Gan Ma issue joint response to dispute[3]Tencent and Lao Gan Ma issue joint response to disputedonews.com
Tencent and Lao Gan Ma said they had clarified their misunderstanding. Tencent said it had applied to withdraw its lawsuit and property-preservation application, apologized to Lao Gan Ma, and would improve related processes. The parties said they would explore future formal cooperation.
2020.07.03
Reported2020.07.04
Procuratorate intervenes in investigation of alleged forged Lao Gan Ma seal[5]Procuratorate intervenes in investigation of alleged forged Lao Gan Ma sealnews.china.com.cn
The Nanming District People's Procuratorate in Guiyang said it had intervened in the investigation of a case involving an allegedly forged Lao Gan Ma company seal. The article reports the intervention as a development in the case, not a finding of liability by Lao Gan Ma.
2020.06.30
Reported2020.06.30
Tencent sues Laoganma over unpaid advertising fees[7]腾讯起诉老干妈追讨广告款tech.sina.com.cn
Tencent said it sued Laoganma in a service-contract dispute, alleging that Laoganma had not paid advertising fees due under their agreement despite Tencent fulfilling its obligations. The case was still being heard by the court in the supplied reports.

Sources20 sources

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