Mappin & Webb
British jeweller, silversmith and luxury watch retailer with a long history of royal commissions and Royal Warrants.
Last updated August 26, 2026
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Overview
Mappin & Webb is a British jewellery, silverware and watch business whose origins lie in a Sheffield silver workshop established by Jonathan Mappin in 1775. The enterprise developed through the Mappin family’s participation in England’s metalworking and cutlery trades before becoming a London-facing luxury house in the nineteenth century. John Mappin established Mappin & Company in London in 1860, and the business became Mappin, Webb & Co. in 1862 after George Webb joined him. The name subsequently became associated with high-quality silverware, candelabras, vanity articles, jewellery and, later, watches. The company’s first London shop opened on Oxford Street in 1860. Further expansion included a City of London showroom on Poultry in 1870 and additional premises inherited or developed through the Mappin family businesses. Mappin & Webb acquired Mappin Brothers in 1903, consolidating related family interests. Its architectural presence was particularly notable in central London: the Oxford Street premises were rebuilt in the early twentieth century, while the Regent Street store was reconstructed in 1914. A prominent neo-Gothic City branch designed by John Belcher stood at the junction of Poultry and Queen Victoria Street until its demolition in 1994 for the No. 1 Poultry development. Mappin & Webb expanded overseas from the 1890s, operating stores in locations including Johannesburg, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Biarritz, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Cairo and Bombay. Its Johannesburg premises, built in 1915, became a local landmark. Import restrictions in South Africa, foreign-exchange losses and wider trading difficulties contributed to a retreat from overseas retail during the late 1950s and 1960s. The international branches were eventually closed, leaving the business focused on the United Kingdom. The brand has a substantial royal and ceremonial heritage. Queen Victoria commissioned the company, including a necklace made for her Golden Jubilee in 1888 that she designated as a Crown heirloom. Mappin & Webb has held British Royal Warrants since 1897 and has supplied or served British monarchs including Queen Elizabeth II, King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Its craftsmanship has also been associated with royal and aristocratic patrons outside Britain. The business made the original Ryder Cup trophy and has produced trophies for Royal Ascot over many decades. In 2023, Mappin & Webb craftsmen modified the historic Crown of Queen Mary for Queen Camilla’s coronation. Ownership changed repeatedly in the second half of the twentieth century. Sears gained control in 1959 and acquired Garrard & Co., then the Crown Jeweller, later that year. Sears sold Mappin & Webb to Asprey in 1990. The company was acquired with Watches of Switzerland by Judith Pilkington in 1998, joined the Baugur Group in 2005, and transferred with other assets to the Aurum Group in 2009 after Baugur’s insolvency. Apollo-affiliated investors acquired the wider Aurum business in 2013. Aurum Holdings was renamed Watches of Switzerland Group in 2018, and the parent company floated in London in 2019. Mappin & Webb remains a UK luxury retail and jewellery brand within that group, combining branded and bespoke jewellery, watches, silverware and ceremonial craft with its historic royal positioning.
History
Mappin & Webb traces its origins to Jonathan Mappin’s silver workshop in Sheffield in 1775. Sheffield was a major centre of English metalworking, and the family’s commercial activities eventually included the business known as Mappin Brothers. In 1860, Jonathan Mappin’s descendant John Mappin established Mappin & Company in London. The first Mappin & Webb shop opened that year at 77–78 Oxford Street, later renumbered 160–162. George Webb joined John Mappin in 1862, producing the name Mappin, Webb & Co. The London business built its reputation through silverware, candelabras, vanity goods and related luxury objects. Jewellery became a natural extension of the silver business. A City showroom opened on Poultry in 1870, designed in a prominent neo-Gothic style by John Belcher. The firm later expanded its London estate, including the rebuilding of Oxford Street premises by Belcher and Joass in 1906 and the reconstruction of the Regent Street store in 1914. In 1903, Mappin, Webb & Co. acquired Mappin Brothers, bringing important family operations together. International expansion began in the 1890s. Stores opened in Johannesburg and then in several major commercial and resort cities, including Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Biarritz, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Cairo and Bombay. The company built a substantial Johannesburg property in 1915. Its international network contracted after the Second World War. In 1959, South African import controls forced the closure of the Johannesburg showrooms, while foreign-exchange losses and poor 1958 results prompted broader retrenchment. The overseas branches were ultimately withdrawn during the second half of the twentieth century. The company also experienced financial and strategic pressure in Britain. In 1926, trading difficulties led to a 50 percent reduction in capital. The Oxford Street premises were nevertheless expanded in 1929. By the 1950s, management considered the area less suitable for the company’s target clientele and closed the Oxford Street showroom in 1956, retaining the property and headquarters while opening a showroom on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge. During the same period the company diversified into surgical instruments, pinking shears, linen and other businesses, acquiring John Weiss & Son, a controlling interest in the Pinking Shear Company, Robinson & Cleaver, and Gladwin Limited. It also held a stake in dispensing chemist Lewis & Burrows. Sears gained control in 1959 and acquired Garrard & Co., the Crown Jeweller, in October of that year. Mappin & Webb and other established British silver and cutlery manufacturers formed British Silverware Limited in 1963. In 1990, Sears sold Mappin & Webb to Asprey in exchange for shares in the enlarged group. Judith Pilkington acquired the company and Watches of Switzerland from Asprey in 1998. Baugur Group acquired them in 2005, and Goldsmiths, also owned by Baugur, acquired them in 2006. Following Baugur’s insolvency, the business and assets transferred to Aurum Group in 2009. An Apollo-affiliated investment group acquired Aurum Holdings in 2013; the business was renamed Watches of Switzerland Group in 2018 and listed in London in 2019. Royal patronage is central to the brand’s identity. Queen Victoria was the first British monarch to commission the company, and Mappin & Webb made her Golden Jubilee necklace in 1888. The house has held British Royal Warrants since 1897 and has supplied successive royal households. Its craftspeople have occupied the office of Crown Jeweller: Martin Swift held the role from 2012, followed by Mark Appleby in 2017. For the 2023 coronation, the company modified Queen Mary’s Crown for Queen Camilla. Alongside royal work, Mappin & Webb made the original Ryder Cup and has supplied Royal Ascot trophies for approximately 75 years. The brand continues to operate in the United Kingdom as a luxury jewellery, silverware and watch retailer within Watches of Switzerland Group.
- 2023
Queen Mary’s Crown is modified for Queen Camilla
[1]Mappin & Webb undertakes historic crown work for the coronation.
- 2013
Aurum Holdings is acquired by Apollo-affiliated investors
[1]Mappin & Webb enters the investment ownership structure that later becomes Watches of Switzerland Group.
- 2009
Business assets transfer to Aurum Group
[1]The transfer follows the insolvency and administration of Baugur Group.
- 1990
Sears sells Mappin & Webb to Asprey
[1]The sale places the brand within the Asprey group.
- 1963
British Silverware Limited is formed
[1]Mappin & Webb joins Elkington, Walker & Hall and Adie Brothers in a silverware and cutlery grouping.
- 1959
Sears gains control and overseas retrenchment begins
[1]Sears increases its ownership while Mappin & Webb closes Johannesburg and begins reducing international operations.
- 1959
Garrard & Co. is acquired
[1]Mappin & Webb buys the Crown Jeweller for almost £1 million.
- 1915
Johannesburg landmark premises are built
[1]The company constructs a major overseas property in Johannesburg.
- 1903
Mappin Brothers is acquired
[1]Mappin, Webb & Co. consolidates the related Mappin family business.
- 1897
British Royal Warrants begin
[1]Mappin & Webb begins holding Royal Warrants from the British royal household.
Products and positioning
High-end British jewellery and silverware house combining heritage craftsmanship, royal associations, bespoke work and luxury watch retail.
Jewellery
Fine jewellery
Mappin & Webb’s core jewellery activity includes precious-metal and gemstone pieces positioned at the high end of the British market. The house is also associated with bespoke and ceremonial commissions, reflecting its historic work for royal and high-society clients.
Home and ceremonial goods · 1775
Silverware
Silverware is central to the company’s historical identity. Its nineteenth-century reputation was built on candelabras, fine silver objects, vanity articles and related presentation goods, and the business later participated in broader British silverware manufacturing.
Watches
Luxury watches
The brand’s modern retail scope includes luxury watches, sold alongside jewellery and other high-value personal goods through its UK store network and wider Watches of Switzerland Group structure.
Bespoke and ceremonial craftsmanship · 1888
Royal and ceremonial commissions
Mappin & Webb has produced royal jewellery, trophies and ceremonial objects. Examples include Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee necklace, the original Ryder Cup trophy, Royal Ascot trophies and work on Queen Mary’s Crown for Queen Camilla’s coronation.
Brand decisions
2023
Modify Queen Mary’s Crown for Queen CamillaOtherBackground
The 2023 coronation required historic crown work for the consort’s use.
Action taken
Mappin & Webb craftsmen modified Queen Mary’s Crown for Queen Camilla.
Aftermath
The work reinforced the company’s continuing role in British royal and ceremonial craftsmanship.
1959
Curtail overseas tradingStrategyBackground
Import controls in South Africa, foreign-exchange losses and a reported loss for 1958 weakened the economics of the international branch network.
Action taken
The company closed its Johannesburg showrooms and announced plans to reduce overseas trading and close branches in other countries.
Aftermath
The international stores were ultimately withdrawn during the second half of the twentieth century, leaving the brand focused on the UK.
1956
Shift London retail emphasis toward KnightsbridgeStrategyBackground
The company considered its Oxford Street showroom location less suitable for its target luxury clientele, while the Regent Street operation was performing better.
Action taken
Mappin & Webb closed the Oxford Street showroom, retained the property and headquarters, and announced a new showroom on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge.
Aftermath
The decision marked a change in the company’s London retail footprint during a broader period of diversification and restructuring.
Sources1 sources
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