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Squale Watches

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Squale Watches is a Swiss brand specializing in professional and enthusiast diving watches.

Last updated August 31, 2026

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Overview

Squale Watches, also known as Squale, is a Swiss diving-watch brand associated with the development and supply of water-resistant watch cases and professional dive watches. The company traces its roots to Charles von Büren, who began assembling watches under his own name in the late 1940s. In 1959, he registered the Squale trademark in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. The name is derived from the French word for shark and is pronounced approximately “Skwal.” During the 1960s and 1970s, Squale developed a reputation not only as a watch brand but also as a specialist case maker and technical supplier. It produced cases and related components for a range of watch companies, including Altanus Genève, Arlon, Potens Prima, Prima Flic, Jean Perret Geneva, Ocean Diver, Deman Watch, Margi, Berio, Eagle Star Genève, La Spirotechnique, Wertex, Carlson Tavernier Geneva, Sinn and others. Its technical work included cases designed for substantial water resistance, including 500-metre-rated designs with the crown positioned at four o'clock. Those cases were used by brands such as Airin, Dodane, Blancpain, TAG Heuer, Doxa, Zeno and Auricoste. This supplier role is an important part of Squale's historical identity because its influence extended beyond watches sold under the Squale name. The company also supplied timepieces to military and specialist diving users. Historical associations include the Folgore Parachute Brigade of the Italian Air Force, the Italian Navy's Diving Corps and the Cuban national diving team. Squale watches were also linked with prominent divers and spearfishers, including Jacques Mayol, Tony Salvatori, Jean Tapu and Maria “Jolly” Treleani. These associations reinforced the brand's positioning around underwater reliability, professional use and diving culture. Squale entered the watch market as an independent entity in 1974. Like many traditional Swiss watch businesses, it was affected by the quartz crisis. In 1989, the company stopped producing mechanical watches and concentrated on quartz models, including the Squale Rambo. The change weakened its visibility in the international mechanical-watch market, and the brand subsequently receded from prominence. The Rambo model nevertheless gained later popular recognition after being worn by Jackie Chan in the 1987 film Armour of God. Following Charles von Büren's retirement, the Maggi family and former Italian distributors of von Büren and Squale watches became associated with the brand. Squale was relaunched in 2010, with headquarters in Milan and watch production in Chiasso, Switzerland. In 2020, the headquarters moved entirely to Chiasso. The modern brand continues to focus on mechanical diving watches, drawing on its historic case designs, Swiss production links and long-standing connections with professional and recreational diving. Its current identity is that of a specialist, independent-style dive-watch marque rather than a broad luxury-watch conglomerate.

History

Squale's history begins with Charles von Büren, who was assembling watches under his own name by 1948. In 1959, he registered the Squale trademark in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. The French word “squale” means shark, and the brand name reflects the company's close association with underwater equipment and diving watches. In the 1960s and 1970s, Squale operated as an important technical supplier within the Swiss and European watch industry. It made cases for numerous brands and developed water-resistant designs intended for serious diving. One notable configuration offered a claimed 500 metres of water resistance and placed the crown at four o'clock. Cases of this general design were supplied to or used by companies including Airin, Dodane, Blancpain, TAG Heuer, Doxa, Zeno and Auricoste. Squale's production and design work therefore had an impact that extended beyond its own branded watches. The company also served military and specialist users. Its historical customers and associations included the Folgore Parachute Brigade of the Italian Air Force, the Italian Navy's Diving Corps and the Cuban national diving team. Divers and underwater athletes connected with the brand included Jacques Mayol, Tony Salvatori, Jean Tapu and Maria “Jolly” Treleani. These relationships helped establish Squale as a functional diving instrument rather than merely a fashion-oriented watch label. Squale became an independent watch-market entity in 1974. The quartz crisis later forced a major strategic change. In 1989, the company suspended mechanical-watch production and shifted toward quartz watches. The Squale Rambo was among the products associated with this phase. Although the quartz strategy followed a broad industry trend, it contributed to the brand's subsequent decline in international visibility. The Rambo also acquired a film connection when Jackie Chan wore one in Armour of God, released in 1987. After Charles von Büren retired, the Maggi family and former Italian distributors of von Büren and Squale watches became partners in the brand's continuation. Squale was relaunched in 2010. At that stage, its headquarters were in Milan while watchmaking was carried out in Chiasso, Switzerland. In 2020, the company moved its headquarters fully to Chiasso. The current brand remains centered on diving watches and uses its historical technical reputation, Swiss manufacturing connection and professional-diving associations as the foundation of its market identity.

  • 2020

    Headquarters consolidated in Chiasso

    [1]

    Squale moved its headquarters entirely to Chiasso, Switzerland.

  • 2010

    Brand relaunch

    [1]

    Squale relaunched with headquarters in Milan and watchmaking activities in Chiasso, Switzerland.

  • 1989

    Mechanical production halted during the quartz era

    [1]

    The company stopped producing mechanical watches and concentrated on quartz timepieces, including the Squale Rambo.

  • 1974

    Squale enters the watch market independently

    [1]

    Squale began operating as an independent entity in the watch market.

  • 1967

    Professional and military diving associations expand

    [1]

    During the 1960s, Squale supplied or became associated with professional diving users, including the Italian Navy's Diving Corps and the Cuban national diving team.

  • 1959

    Squale trademark registered

    [1]

    Charles von Büren registered the Squale trademark in Neuchâtel, Switzerland.

  • 1948

    Charles von Büren begins assembling watches under his own name

    [1]

    Charles von Büren began assembling watches under his own name, establishing the activity that later led to the Squale trademark.

Products and positioning

A specialist Swiss diving-watch brand emphasizing water resistance, technical case design, military and professional-diving heritage, and enthusiast-oriented mechanical watches.

  • Diving watch

    Squale 50 Atmos

    The 50 Atmos is a Squale diving-watch line associated with the brand's modern revival. Reference 1521-026A has been publicly associated with actor James Marsden. The line represents Squale's emphasis on purpose-built underwater watches and the continuation of its traditional dive-watch design language.

  • Quartz diving watch · 1989

    Squale Rambo

    The Squale Rambo was created during the company's quartz-focused period after mechanical production was suspended in 1989. It is notable both as an example of Squale's response to the quartz crisis and for its later association with Jackie Chan, who wore a Squale Rambo in Armour of God.

  • Professional diving watch and case design

    Squale 500M cases and watches

    Squale's 500-metre water-resistant case designs, including versions with a crown positioned at four o'clock, were among its most consequential technical contributions. The cases were supplied to or used by several other watch companies and helped define the brand's professional-diving reputation.

Brand decisions

  • 2020

    Headquarters moved to ChiassoStrategy

    Background

    Squale had operated with headquarters in Milan and watchmaking in Chiasso after its relaunch.

    Action taken

    The company moved its headquarters entirely to Chiasso, Switzerland.

    Aftermath

    The move consolidated the brand's administrative and watchmaking identity in Switzerland.

  • 2010

    Relaunch of the Squale brandStrategy

    Background

    After Charles von Büren's retirement and a period of reduced international prominence, the Maggi family and former Italian distributors became involved in the brand's continuation.

    Action taken

    Squale was relaunched with headquarters in Milan and watchmaking in Chiasso, Switzerland.

    Aftermath

    The relaunch restored Squale's focus on specialist diving watches and re-established its Swiss production connection.

  • 1989

    Shift from mechanical to quartz watchesStrategy

    Background

    The global quartz crisis placed pressure on traditional mechanical-watch producers and affected Squale's market position.

    Action taken

    Squale halted mechanical-watch production and concentrated on quartz timepieces, including the Squale Rambo.

    Aftermath

    The move followed the wider industry trend but was followed by a decline in the brand's international visibility.

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